From kayaking and getting dumped numerous times, I have learned to read the waves, which are always stronger near the times of the new and full moons. Just because they look small and mild does not mean they will stay that way! Watch the waves for at least 5 minutes to establish the pattern of the sets. Often there will be 3, 7, 9, or some other number of large waves before they calm down again. Listen for the sounds of the bigger waves as they crash on the beach, count them carefully, and notice how much time elapses before another big set comes along. I always swim well behind the break, which is farther out for larger waves, and I wait until a set of large waves have passed before I exit the water as quickly as I can.
Be careful! Cuidado!
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