I swim fairly far out in the ocean year round. The diciest part of the swim is usually getting through the surf zone on the way out or coming in.
If the water is shallow enough for you to stand and have your shoulders out of the water, you really need to be keeping your eyes on the ocean, not the beach. Without having witnessed the incident to which Carole refers, I'm guessing the woman had her back to the ocean and, thus, wasn't ready for the wave that knocked her down.
Also, it is much better (safer) to dive or duck under a breaking wave than to attempt to jump over it, as I see quite a few folks do. When you're in the zone where it is too shallow to safely dive under, turn sideways to the whitewater to reduce your surface area of your body.
Solely, FYI.
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